De Wallen is the Dutch name for Amsterdam’s infamous red-light district, known worldwide and often associated with decadence, excess, and perdition. It ranks among the city’s top three tourist destinations. Yet De Wallen is also a neighbourhood where ordinary people of all backgrounds and beliefs live, work, love, and die. Photographer Dana Lixenberg knows this area intimately. She grew up there, and her father maintained a studio in the neighbourhood until his death. During and after the COVID period, she wandered through the alleyways and along the canals, meeting and photographing its inhabitants. Her work is currently on display at the Stadsarchief Amsterdam. I was particularly touched by her intimate black-and-white portraits of the people, and less so by the large, empty colour interiors that are also presented. Walking through De Wallen with Dana Lixenberg is a unique experience, one that brings us closer to the soul of Amsterdam.


